Things not to do at Kuwohi a locals take
William Shakespeare – through his timeless star-crossed heroine Juliet – once asked “What’s in a name?”
I find myself pondering that question more these days than ever before in my life. It’s certainly a question that in today’s times – like so many pieces of our lives that had been relatively mundane – has become fraught.
I wish I could feign ignorance and say I don’t really understand the hubbub. Names have changed throughout the history of the world – Istanbul was Constantinople and New York was once New Amsterdam and all that.
But I know the whys and the hows behind the anger whether it’s the Cleveland Guardians or the Washington Commanders. I watch the arguments as Mt. McKinley returns to Denali and back again. I watch the arguments as the Gulf of Mexico becomes (maybe?) the Gulf of America.
And I’ve watched as people express frustration at the renaming of what had been – for all my life and beyond – Clingmans Dome back to its native Cherokee name of Kuwohi.
For the purposes of this article, I hope to set that argument aside. Myself? I call it Kuwohi when I remember to. But it is usually with the caveat that it used to be Clingmans Dome. There are some people who remain unaware of the name change.
But as Shakespeare indicated, the name only has so much power. Whatever we call it, the views remain just as majestic, the mountain remains just as spectacular.
Five things not to do at Kuwohi
1. Don’t confuse the observation tower with the mountain
For most of my time in the Smokies – approaching 35 years or so – the name of the mountain has been pretty much used interchangeably with the observation tower. The tower is the circular observation platform accessed by a 375-foot spiral ramp. However, the tower was built in 1959 as part of the massive Mission 66 program designed to spiff up the national parks in advance of the system’s 50th anniversary.
I can only speak for myself. But because I wasn’t used to a mountain being called a “dome” I assumed the reference was to the observation tower. However, if I gave it much thought I would have realized there was even less reason to call the tower a dome. Kuwohi is majestic in and of itself.
Accessible from Kuwohi Road – yes, the road name changed, too – the mountain is the tallest in the Smokies. It also allows access to several excellent hiking trails – including the Appalachian Trail – and it sits right on the Tennessee-North Carolina border.
2. Don’t expect to access the observation tower with wheels
The ramp up to the viewing platform isn’t terribly long but it is pretty steep. Even with the ramp, wheelchairs, strollers and scooters are not allowed. You are also – for the record – not allowed to take your bike, skateboard or roller skates to the top to roll back down.
I’ve often thought the NPS should schedule a couple of days a year – or maybe a single day – for lunatics and thrill seekers to come to the tower and give it a shot like the communities in Europe that have people chase a big wheel of cheese down a mountain. It’s probably a liability issue and would be too dangerous but, my goodness, think of the content.
3. Don’t forget there’s more to the mountain than the tower
As we said earlier, there are several trails and trailheads on top of the mountain that are just waiting to be explored. However, don’t to that on a whim – or at least don’t go far without being prepared. The Smoky Mountain trails at that elevation are to be taken seriously. Proper shoes, water and supplies are necessary if you’re going to do any significant hiking up there.
It’s also a good idea to have a paper trail map and a compass. Or download one before you go. Also, it’s a good idea to let people know where you plan to be and it never hurts to have a hiking buddy.
4. Don’t forget to celebrate history at the Laura Spelman Rockefeller Memorial
At the intersection of Kuwohi Road and Highway 441, is the Newfound Gap parking lot. It’s also the home to the Laura Spelman Rockefeller Memorial where President Franklin Roosevelt stood when he dedicated the park in 1940.
Robber baron Nelson Rockefeller – using the memorial fund he’d started in his late wife’s name – donated $5 million, or half the cost of land acquisition for the park. You can go up today and stand where FDR stood on Sept. 2, 1940. The parking area is also a good place to set foot on the Appalachian Trail just to say you did it.
5. Don’t try to go in the winter
The road up to Kuwohi is very steep. If you’re afraid of heights as I am, there are a couple of places where the old sphincter gets a little tighter. As such, the road up Kuwohi is suboptimal for winter weather driving. While the mountain and the observation tower remain open year-round, the road closes from December 1 through March 31. That means if you want to go in the winter, you’re gonna have to hike.
Unless you are a very experienced hiker capable of handling fairly extreme changes in elevation, it’s best to plan your trip up the mountain in spring, summer or fall. Be aware, however, that the road can be closed due to inclement weather at any time of the year if nature demands it.
Do you agree with our list? Let us know the comments!