Local compares two popular Southern-style restaurants in the Smoky Mountains
One of the truisms of life in Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge is that if you find business success with a new or unique idea, it won’t be long until someone else is moving in on your territory. I’ve been around these mountains for nearly four decades. I recognize that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. But it’s also a surefire method for finding business success. And that’s why, when it comes to spending your hard-earned money in the mountains, you’ve got to spend time evaluating competitors to ensure you get the best possible experience.
In Sevier County, there are many competing homestyle restaurants. But two are located on historic properties with ties to the area’s agricultural heritage, complexes with shopping and sundries and also multiple restaurants on the property. In this article, I will be breaking down The Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant and The Old Mill Restaurant.
IN THIS ARTICLE
The Old Mill Restaurant
Located on the grounds of one of the oldest continually operating gristmills in the country, The Old Mill Restaurant offers Southern classics served in a beautiful historic setting that dates back to the mill’s construction in 1830. Dining options include Southern Fried, Southern Style, Southern Grilled and From the Water.
The pros:
It’s good country cooking done pretty well. If you grew up with a down-home cooking grandmother as I did, your standards are unrealistically high. No one will ever match my Nanny’s biscuits and gravy or chicken and dumplings. But it would be folly to avoid ordering these items just because perfection has been attained and can’t be matched in a restaurant setting. The Old Mill Restaurant is also strong on variety. A lot of homestyle places only offer a handful of entrees. So if you don’t want any of them, you’re out of potluck as it were.
The Old Mill offers the expected classics and a handful of deep cuts that connect to true mountain dining. The menu includes Spareribs and Sauerkraut, Sugar-cured City Ham and the Pan-fried Beef Liver and Onions. But The Old Mill is not beholden to the past, there are a variety of vegetarian options as well as healthier options from the grill.
Most dinner entrees include a cup of the Signature Corn Chowder, Corn Fritters, a house side salad, mashed potatoes and green beans. Dessert includes the famous pecan pie – I am a fan – or the banana pudding – I’m a bigger fan. Another option would be to head over across the property to The Old Mill Creamery for homemade ice cream.
There’s another restaurant on the property, the Pottery House Café which offers non-homestyle dining that includes sandwiches, burgers and a handful of deeper Southern options like Shrimp and Grits or Chicken Gumbo.
In addition to the food, the working mill sells a variety of items, including products made from the milled items themselves. It’s a full-service mill experience. It should be noted that The Old Mill and the Applewood Restaurants are not family-style, meaning you get entrees for the table and it’s all-you-can-eat. However, both restaurants offer large portions and the option of ordering a plate to share for an additional charge.
The cons:
I don’t have a lot of negatives to say about The Old Mill Restaurant. It’s one of the best homestyle dining experiences out there. The form itself has some limitations. When you’re serving up home-style dining, you have to be careful with the quality of the ingredients to ensure you’re not losing money on the deal. As a result, the quality of the meal can suffer. I don’t find that to be as big of an issue at The Old Mill. But it doesn’t entirely overcome the limitations of the genre.
Still, for about under $30 per person, it’s pretty good. I wouldn’t mind more options of sides. Homestyle dining without fried okra is a bit of a letdown. And they could bring over the Jalapeno Corn Pudding from the Café to spice things up a little. Old Mill is located at 164 Old Mill Avenue in Pigeon Forge.
The Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant
Located just across the river from Pigeon Forge in Sevierville, the Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant is also on a property featuring shopping, multiple restaurants and some of the area’s agricultural history.
Surrounded by apple orchards, the Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant is the oldest in Sevierville. They serve up country classics like Fried Chicken, Meatloaf, Country-fired Steak, Catfish and Chicken Pot Pie. Each meal is served with a choice of soup and comes with mashed potatoes and an additional side and dessert.
The pros:
Dinner meal prices range from $19 to $23, making this an affordable option. They also are a little more adventurous than other homestyle restaurants offering a Chicken Cordon Bleu that I doubt was available to farmhands or apple pickers back in the day. A huge pro? They have fried okra and collard greens. Are the greens the best I’ve ever had? No. But I give them credit for trying and when I’m in the mood, they still hit the spot.
Other pros? I grew up around apple orchards. The Apple Barn complex with its two restaurants, Cider Mill and General Store puts me in mind of my childhood. Plus, there are plenty of goodies to buy and take home in a variety of apple ciders, jams, jellies and butter. Also, the Applewood Grill – like the Café at The Old Mill – offers plenty of non-homestyle options.
The cons:
Again, my chief complaint is simply about the homestyle genre. It can lack a little in the quality and flavor departments, but I find the Applewood to be right at the top of the heap. It’s certainly better than any of the national chains that dabble in this sort of thing. I wouldn’t mind a bit more spice. But that’s a complaint I have at almost every homestyle restaurant I’ve eaten at. They keep the flavors down to appeal to the masses and then offer some hot sauce or something to give a kick to those who want it. Applewood Farmhouse is located at 240 Apple Valley Road in Sevierville.
So which one is best?
Honestly, if you’re in the mood for homestyle dining, these are two of the best options in the region. The historic, agricultural ambiance adds to the overall experience at each and makes for a memorable dining experience. I don’t think you’ll go wrong with either place.
But the internet has a favorite. While they both have identical 4.5 ratings on Google, The Old Mill has a Yelp rating of 4.3 while the Applewood Farmhouse comes in at 4 even. Still, if I had to pick – and for this article I do – I would go against the good people at Yelp. I’d pick Applewood because I prefer apple-related items to milled items and they serve fried okra. Okra is very big in my family. It’s the deal breaker.
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I totally disagree the applewood use to right up there they have really gone down hill.they have done away with salad and if you want most if the dessert s you have to pay extra.Thet have also changed the menu and done away with a lot of pork items pork roast use to be so good now the have a pork chop which is always dry. Just not as good as the old mill and I eat at both a lot.